When the world around you is overwhelming, and the stresses get to be too great, where do you go? Sure, there are many places in the physical world you can go to, but what about mentally? Where do you go? For some people, they go to a beach, where the warm sun kisses their skin and the hot sand relaxes their muscles. Others may choose a place of comfort, like a close relative or friend’s house, a place where you can vent and just be yourself no matter what goes on outside. It is in this plane of existence that Chanel No. 19 lives.
And what of those stressors? Where do they come from? Work and the general monotony of life and its inconveniences are a common source. Sometimes, however, it comes from personal growth and ambition. An endless game between the uncertain future, and the familiar present. It is here too, at this crossroads, that Chanel No. 19 lives.
The juxtaposition between the positions No. 19 occupies is what makes it so great. On one hand, it takes your hand and invites you on a journey to an ethereal place that only you have access to. However, it is also a fragrance that is not only competing with itself, but its own house and heritage, in an effort to tell its own story and be different. The desire to be different, for change, and to be uniquely “you” echoes throughout history time and time again.
In this article, we will explore where this struggle originates from, and what exactly that smells like. You can also view my video review of No. 19 on TikTok.
“In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.”
― Coco Chanel
The Most Famous Designer in the World
Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel, arguably the most famous fashion designer in history. From popularizing the “little black dress” to her timeless handbags and suits, she is responsible for some of the most iconic designs in western fashion history. Coco Chanel’s influence on not just fashion, but art, is immeasurable.
It would be foolish of me to dedicate a whole section to the history of her and her brand, it is a story that has been told more times than I can count. However, I do believe it is important to touch on the history of Chanel’s fragrances, and how that brought us to No. 19.
Source: Los Angeles Times on Wikimedia Commons
Source: Wikimedia Commons
Chanel began her eponymous design house in 1909, however it would not be until the dawn of the roaring 20s that she would dip her toes into the waters of the fragrance industry. For this venture, Coco recruited the master perfumer Ernest Beaux to create her first ever scent. There are many myths and legends surrounding its creation, but they all end the exact same way: Chanel No. 5 was thrust into the world.
Renowned for its daring use of aldehydes, its abstract composition, and its modern take on femininity, No. 5 became the trendsetter for the decade. With it, Chanel’s already successful fashion house was skyrocketed to superstardom. Following this success, Ernest Beaux would continue on as Chanel’s head perfumer until his retirement in 1952. Some of his notable creations during his legendary stay include: Cuir de Russie, Bois des Îles, Gardenia, and No. 22.
Henri Robert joined Chanel immediately after. In addition to his creative genius, Henri brought with him an impressive resume in the fragrance industry. Having created the classic Le Dandy for Parfums d’Orsay, and being the Chief Perfumer at Coty for many years, he was a worthy successor to the vacancy left by Ernest Beaux. This was proven with his launch of Chanel’s first men’s cologne in 1955, Pour Monsieur.
His best work, however, was yet to come. As the tides shifted in the world, so too did the tastes. From these new shores, the idea for No. 19 sprang to life.
The Outspoken Chanel
As the saying goes, every action has a reaction. Each new social movement, invention, and design has a ripple effect in the waters of the world. Crashing against the stalwart boats of society and rocking them, sometimes gently and sometimes harshly. Often, the beauty and fashion boats are rocked more than many of the others.
The 1960s saw these waves in droves, a crescendo that pushed towards a completely different world on the other side of the decade. Throughout the 1950s and early 1960s, the hallmark scents of the interwar period remained some of the most popular. Arpège, Shalimar, No. 5, and Joy still continued their mighty reign. Surrounding them were a crop of new comers that, although unique, traced their paths back to similar contexts or schools of thought.
By the mid 60s, a new context had finally arrived and with it the dawn of the green floral scent. Not a new scent type by any means, but one that would only gain in popularity with each consecutive year. Dior’s 1966 Eau Sauvage would be one of the first shots in that battle, with Lancôme’s O de Lancôme (1969) and Guerlain’s Chamade (1969) soon following.
Suddenly, the warm oriental florals with their bubbling aldehydes and dense compositions became passé, and a new fresher, crisper scent was en vogue. It was within this context that No. 19 would be brought to life.
Named for Coco Chanel’s birthday, August 19, the scent would be the final new scent worn by Coco before her death in 1971. Later that year, the scent was available to the public, and what greeted them was something unlike anything Chanel had ever launched.
Chanel No. 19 Review: A Toast to Nature
Originally released in 1970 to a select few clientele, before having its full launch in late 1971, No. 19 has undergone a handful of reformulations over the years. For this review, I will be using my modern Eau de Parfum bottle. Soon I hope to find a good vintage bottle of the Parfum, but until then, I am happy to know the EdP version.
Now, what does No. 19 smell like?
On the skin, No. 19 starts with a strong forceful blast of galbanum, among other green notes. Like the tapping of a wine glass to commence a speech, No. 19 commands you to hear what it has to say. It is sharp, heady, and aggressively fresh, almost acrid in the way it hits your senses. Complimenting this note, bergamot sort of lingers behind it. The citrus of the bergamot helps to make the scent sparkle in a way that a cold glass of lemonade would. The two bring the top note composition into the stratosphere with their crisp airiness. It is a clean and fresh start, but sophisticated and complex.
Like a shout in an empty lecture hall, the top notes reverberate throughout the entire fragrance, but as they die down the middle and base notes come out to continue the scent’s speech. The first note that hits me is the iris, followed by ylang-ylang, narcissus, and lily of the valley. All of these florals transport me into the crispest of early spring gardens, with just the slightest hint of powder. The white florals and the green top notes paint the picture of a spring garden, except rather than being a lush blend of flowers, its almost herbaceous and medicinal in a way. It is a chilly composition that dances on the edge of being offensively fresh, but never quite falls over.
As the notes continue to speak, I start to hear the base notes come through. I can sense the vetiver and sandalwood especially, with maybe a slight hint of oak moss. The combination of these ground the fragrance nicely, without forcing it into the depths of the Earth. I especially smell the vetiver note that is providing a nice, earthy, almost medicinal, quality to the scent. The base notes are not the stars of this scent, not by a long shot. No. 19 is all about the top and middle notes, the base notes are there to reinforce them. To that end, they accomplish the task nicely.
To me, No. 19’s magic lies in the world it builds around you. Each note comes together and teleports me to an almost fairy tale forest after a light morning rain. The soft soil under my feet, the wet and fresh leaves on the trees, and the morning dew on the grass. Oddly, it simultaneously transports me to a well curated herb and flower garden, brimming with life and greenery for you to enjoy. It is so familiar, yet so alien and otherworldly. It floats high above you in the clouds, hitting your senses like a glass of cold water on a warm summer day. At the same time, it gently brings you back down to earth on a soft bed of soil and plant life, cushioning your weight underneath them like a soft bed. It is bright, invigorating, and bubbly, yet also so rooted in nature and ecology.
No. 19 is strong, acrid, and almost sour, yet somehow entrancing and captivating. The notes lure you back in for more, and when you do give in you are rewarded by a scent that takes your breath away. It never crosses the line too far in any direction, but it forces you to dip your toes in both worlds. It is that juxtaposition and that battle between the earthy base and the green top notes that really make the scent a masterpiece.
Conclusion
It has been over 100 years since Chanel released No. 5, and in those 104 years, No. 19 remains one of the house’s most unique creations.
The battle between trying to stay true to its heritage within Chanel, while also striving to be different and unique. A scent that does completely fit the definitions of various different fragrance families, rather choosing to forge its own path.
Chanel No. 19 is the outspoken, unexpected, and captivating woman that, in a way represents not only Chanel, but Coco herself. It sits nicely on its pedestal in a league of its own, satisfied to be heard, and most importantly, different.
Thank you very much for reading,
– Zak
Gallery of Images
Leave a Reply