Throughout recorded history, there are moments where all the stars align and an explosion of culture and technological advancement shakes the entire world. The changes these moments bring snake their way through the world and touch everything in their path, forever changing them in the process. From this, legends are born and legacies are built, yet never guaranteed.
Over 140 years ago, the French capital of Paris would become the epicenter of one of these moments in history. After decades of hardship and fighting for a better future, not to mention two separate revolutions, the French Republic started healing and reforming anew. From these wounds, the twinkling lights of their own golden age would be born. La Belle Époque, or “The Beautiful Era,” as it would become known, brought an artistic and cultural shift felt not only in France, but through all of Europe as well.
At the height of this era, the 1889 Paris Exposition was held, and it gave a glimpse into the brighter future ahead. Parisians (and Europeans) need not look too far ahead, however, as the current world was shifting beneath their feet. Whether or not they choose to walk with it into greatness, was a choice only they could make.
In that same year, one woman would choose to not only walk with the shifting sands, but to run with it. She choose to make her own way and in the process leave her mark on not only fashion history, but fragrance history as well. Her name was, Jeanne Lanvin, and that year she would start her own eponymous fashion house, which would go on to be the oldest French fashion house still active today.
“I act on impulse and believe in instinct.” – Jeanne Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin – A Crescendo of Success
Jeanne Lanvin was born in Paris on January 1, 1867. The eldest of eleven children, she began her path to success at the age of 16 when she became an apprentice in the art of millinery (hat-making). By 1889, Jeanne was successful and skilled enough to open her own boutique, which would go on to become the brand we know today.
As she found success and dedicated herself to her craft, Jeanne also found the time to fall in love. In 1895 she married Count Emilio di Pietro, an Italian nobleman, but the couple would divorce in less than a decade, in 1903. No matter how the marriage actually went, there is no denying the one important gift it gave her. In 1897, Jeanne gave birth to her only child, Marguerite.
The birth of her daughter was not only a joyous occasion as a mother, but as a creative, it unlocked something within Jeanne. Her daughter was a muse born out of motherly love and ambition, and that love would propel Jeanne far.
The Birth of a Maison
Jeanne spent hours doting on her daughter, designing for her exclusive outfits and costumes that rivaled all the best couture houses in the country. Marguerite was one of the best dressed girls in the world, and the two inspired and pushed one another to their artistic limits.
Soon enough, the rest of the Parisian elite began to take notice, and they too wanted their daughters to be as impeccably dressed as Marguerite was. In 1908, Jeanne opened a children’s department in her boutique, and soon joined Syndicate de la Couture in 1909. She not only designed the finest children’s clothing in the entire country, but she soon also designed clothes for their mothers too.
Her designs were renowned not only for their beauty, but also their attention to detail. Jeanne was a fierce advocate for quality. She went as far to own the production of the materials she used to construct her garments. This endeavor led her to construct her own dye factory in 1923 in order to ensure the quality of the dyes she sourced. The 1920s also saw a massive expansion into many different markets for the company: lingerie, menswear, and even home decor.
In 1924, however, she expanded into the world of fragrance, and that is where her work truly struck me, over 100 years later.
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The Fragrances of Lanvin
Although Lanvin had produced a few fragrances prior, 1924 would mark the year Jeanne made a concentrated push into the market. The first scent to land was Mon Peché composed by Madame Zed, the mysterious Russian perfumer. Following Mon Peché, Lanvin would release 6 more fragrances before World War 2, and the unfortunate passing of Jeanne Lanvin in 1946.
Lanvin’s fragrances were well-regarded for their very high quality standards, due in part to the company owning their own fragrance factory in Nanterre, France. Because of this, Lanvin enjoyed quite a large amount of fame and success up to the late 1960s.
The 1970s saw a shift, however, after being bought out by the American pharmaceutical company Squibb. Although new fragrances continued to launch, the profitability and reputation of fragrance division dropped. The company was sold back to the Lanvin family fully in 1979, and although the family tried to revitalize the once prestigious brand, the factory closed its doors in 1989.
In the span of 50-60 years, the original company produced quite a few fragrances, but I can only find information beyond the name for about 15-16. Below you will find a chart that includes all those fragrances as well as a brief description of the notes. Additionally, any reviews will be linked as well.
| The Fragrances in Order of Release |
|---|
| 1924 – Mon Peché – Floral aldehyde that features a citrusy top note, and a warm oriental base. Discontinued 1988. |
| 1925 – Géranium D’Espagne – Aldehydic floral that features lush and fresh floral notes, in addition to tangy spicy notes. |
| 1927 – Arpège – Floral aldehyde with lush peachy top notes, dense floral mid notes, and a warm grounded base. |
| 1931 – Scandal – Citrus chypre with bright citrus top notes, soft floral mid notes, and a leathery base. |
| 1933 – Eau de Lanvin – Unisex fragrance that features citrus top notes, aromatic mid notes, and a warm woodsy base. |
| 1934 – Rumeur – Fruity chypre with top notes of peach and plum, warm spicy mid notes, and a warm woodsy-leathery base. |
| 1937 – Pretexte – Spicy floral, it features a mix of florals, amber, and leather over a woodsy base. |
| 1964 – Lavande – Dry lavender fougère with notes of lavendar, bergamot, and clary sage. |
| 1964 – Figaro – Fresh green floral chypre, notes of lavender and geranium mixing with a traditional chypre base. |
| 1964 – Vetyver – Aldehydic fresh scent with notes of lemon, earthy mid notes, and a vetiver base note. |
| 1964 – Monsieur Lanvin – Masculine musky powdery chypre with warm, spicy, ambery floral notes. |
| 1965 – Crescendo – Spicy chypre with notes of carnation, tuberose, and a slightly musky leathery base. |
| 1971 – Via Lanvin – Green floral fragrance with a woodsy warm base, and top and mid notes of powder and yellow florals. |
| 1979 – Lanvin for Men – Aromatic chypre with citrusy top notes, white floral mid, and traditional chypre mossy base notes. |
| 1983 – Clair de Jour – Green and white floral fragrance with notes of hyacinth and black locust. |
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